Sugo: Don't Go

Sugar is a necessary if hidden ingredient in many pasta sauces. It cuts the acidity of the tomato and enhances the richness of the flavor. But when the sauce is sweet enough to substitute for dessert, or to provoke the onset of diabetes, someone has used a heavy hand. Such was the case at Sugo a few nights ago, where our disappointing meal was gamely delivered by a frazzled server working the crowded room solo. All in all, it was not a great experience, and although I've always enjoyed Sugo's electic dining room as well as it eclectic menu, we will not be returning any time soon without a clean bill of health from our dentist.